Los Angeles Times
6.16.2022
Yao was brainstorming new dishes for Kato, his once-tiny Sawtelle restaurant that has grown in every way possible since its move in February to the Arts District, and he wanted to invoke the flavors of song shu yu. But that memory had also entwined itself around another childhood favorite: his mother’s fish fragrant sauce, an aromatic base for meat or vegetable stir-fries potent with garlic, ginger and doubanjiang (Sichuan chile bean paste).