Bill Addison raves about the Michelin-starred Hayato at the ROW DTLA

Chef Brandon Go recently turned heads when he earned his first Michelin star only a year and a half after opening Hayato at the Row DTLA. The seven-seat kaiseki restaurant is turning out some of the most transcendent Japanese fare to be found in the States, says Addison—that is, if you’re lucky enough to score a reservation.