Eat Your Way Through L.A.’s Best Markets

In a city that sees summer weather year round, a market visit has become one of the best to ways to immerse yourself in an L.A. neighborhood. Hollywood’s quirky balance of grit and glamour is leaning toward the latter as it sees an influx of sleek luxury apartment buildings and co-working spaces catering to the young creatives moving in. To observe this transformation in real time, save your visit to Hollywood for a Sunday morning when the farmers’ market takes over two blocks just off the iconic corner of Hollywood and Vine. Here among the 160-plus stalls, you’ll see well-heeled residents of the hills, Hollywood hippies, bed-headed hipsters, and the area’s best chefs. If you’re not in an Airbnb or hotel suite with a kitchen, be warned: It will be torture to have to skip the favas, Ventura-county poultry, and chocolate persimmons. Relieve the pain with an agua fresca and pupusa from Salvadoran food stall Pupusas Delmy.

If the Hollywood Farmers’ Market is the quintessential old-meets-new market, then DTLA’s Smorgasburg L.A. is the ultimate new-meets-new experience. With origins in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, it could be argued this is proof that the ongoing cultural convergence of New York and L.A. is near completion. This weekly gathering of tents, food trucks, Airstreams, and open-air bars has turned a massive parking lot in the Arts District into a Sunday ritual for the cool kids of the east side, all trying to out ‘gram each other with photos of their Santa Barbara urchin from the Jolly Oyster and artisanal Micheladas from Michemobil. The most zeitgeist-y vendors sit on opposite sides of the spectrum: There’s LocoL, Roy Choi’s experiment in healthy fast food (think $7 veggie chili) and The NoMad Truck, in town a year in advance of the New York–based hotel and restaurant’s arrival in L.A., where Chef Daniel Humm leans more haute with hot dogs garnished with truffled relish. —H.G.

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